Day 23: Yellowstone National Park, WY to Cody, WY

Up early to join the queue at 7am for the laundry (sigh) but a necessary evil as we had three loads - easy! Poor kids were still sleeping when their sheets were rolled out from underneath them. LOL.

By mid- morning we were on the road again - our last day in this great Park, we decided against going to the Grand Tetons and opted to head back to the geothermal action and take it at a more leisurely pace. But first, the all important walk-in campsite...off to Norris Campground. We were stunned to find that the campsites were all taken so quickly decided on plan B which was to stick to our day's activities but instead of remaining in the Park, we'd head to Cody WY (yes, of Bill Cody fame) some 80 miles due East...which would give us a small jump on the following day's +500 mile trip to Crazy Horse in South Dakota via Devils Tower.

Back to the action, Marco and kids walked the Porcelain Basin at Norris.

After that we headed south to Madison and drove along the meandering rivers of Madison, Gibbon and Fire Fox Hole. These rivers looked so inviting for a swim and we saw several brave souls waist deep having a brief dip. passed the Gibbon Falls we came back to the Midway Geyser Basin, home to the Grand Prismatic Spring.

THIS time, we made it to the correct trailhead for Fairy Falls and started in our quest to get the new million dollar view in Yellowstone (after Old Faithful and Mammoth Hot Springs). Along this short hike we came across lots of obsidian rock and have created short term 'rock monsters' as the kids collected a number of small stones. We also came across an Elk with at least nine pointers grazing on the hillside (Wapiti variety to be exact which is also an introduced species in NZ).

Elk at Fairy Falls

On, on we walked until we came across what we thought was the trail to the top of the hill overlooking the Spring. To be fair, it was a goat trail - something we were not kitted out for wearing our flip flops, BUT never say never! We hiked and some of us crawled to earn the view...AND we were not disappointed. We were rewarded with arguably the best view in Yellowstone hands down. Even the kids let out quite a view exclamations of 'wow', 'how pretty etc. And so to the downward hike/scramble. Pleased to report no injuries just dusty hands, feet and faces. Thanks to the Gibbon River, we were able to wash off at the nearby bridge, and pleasantly treated to a warm rinse thanks to the hot water trickling in underfoot. So we kind of got our dip in:-)

Grand Prismatic Spring - Awesome sight!

Back to Shirley, we made for the East Entrance...some 30miles from Old Faithful...talk about beautiful. In the early evening light it reminded us of driving from Taupo to Turangi on the edge of another super volcano, Lake Taupo, NZ.

Yellowstone Lake

Last crossing of Fishing Bridge

To make it even more memorable as we climbed up into the Absaroka Mountains we were surrounded for many miles by the white ghostly trunks of trees decimated in the 1988? wildfires that swept through Yellowstone. We climbed into the 9000-10,000 feet range before coming back down to the valley floor and East Entrance to exit the Park. Farewell to this iconic Park - we have great memories.

Into Shoshone National Forest we were still a good distance from Cody and close to dinner time we found another gem, aptly named Shoshone Lodge. We received a great homestyle meal before pushing on...eventually arriving in Cody close to midnight...we decided to try out the much heard about 'Walmart'  RV Camping experience...amazed at the number of RVs, Campers and trailers in the parking lot...it was just like being in a regular RV Park but without the amenities!

And so began our Walmart experience.

Day 22: Still in Yellowstone National Park, WY

Sleep in day! And very much needed after early starts and late nights!!

Didn't hit the road until closer to noon and our destination was Yellowstone Grand Canyon. We hiked the Lower Falls Trail - a 600ft drop - and were awestruck with the sight. To the left we could see the Upper Falls. The viewing platform at Lower Falls was a rocky outcrop and we were right on the falls edge...reminded us a little of being on the Zambian side of Victoria Falls ... Really close to the edge. Over the falls we were stunned with the view...it looked too beautiful to be real...even the photos look doctored, but they're not!

Yellowstone River - Lower Falls

Yellowstone Canyon

Simply Breathtaking!

Headed to the Canyon Visitor Center to learn about super volcanoes and then watched on as Matteo recited his pledge to receive his Yellowstone Junior Ranger patch. It is a wolf print and very cool and now pinned to his hat along with his other treasures.

Nadia, Matteo & one Happy Ranger!

After Canyon, we headed back to Fishing Bridge and stopped in at Mud Volcano and walked the short loop - more to get rid of kid-energy I think! We saw a few good mud pools but not quite the same as you get at Whakarewarewa or Ohinemutu in NZ. We did see another bison who was a crowd stopper perched on the bank eating grass while tourists were getting the 'close encounter' photos. Yes - we did the same although from the footpath.

Still heading back to camp we decided to pull into a picnic area for dinner - somewhere to fire up the BBQ. What luck! We stooped at this one spot with a long winding road...right down to the edge of the Yellowstone River...which of course being in flood meant that some of the picnic tables were in the river!! We pulled up; cooked our dinner and had a great view...then back to camp for an early night-ish.

Day 21: Nadia's 3rd birthday in Yellowstone National Park, WY

Happy Birthday Nadia!!

We pulled out just after 7am and headed to the Terraces at Mammoth Hot Springs for Nadia's celebration birthday breakfast followed by a hike. After revelling in her birthday stash incl. tinker bell silly bands, new togs and a hello kitty tin lunch box filled with goodies we headed to the terraces.

Birthday girl with her new cossie

Hello Kitty Lunch Box

Elk at Mammoth Springs with Terraces in background

Elk in morning sunshine

A short hike through the lower terraces we discovered the crown jewels (and therefore by default - bus loads of sightseers)...simply beautiful. Set against the backdrop Fort Yellowstone we could see out to Mount Everts and the Absaroka Mountains and were treated to many colours splashed onto the canvas of terraces laid before us. Brilliant orange and shades of blue. Nice one mother nature!

Minerva Terrace, Mammoth Hot Springs

Looking back to Fort Yellowstone

Crystal Springs on Upper Terrace

Just beautiful!

Looking through the trees

A short drive south to the Norris Geyser Basin we went to see the Steamboat Geyser. While it wasn't as active as has been recorded in recent history, we still got to hear and see smallish outbursts of activity much to the kids delight of seeing a 'real volcano'. Heading out of Norris we went into the museum showing the hydrothermal history...lo and behold there is l'l ole NZ and a picture that was a familiar sight to Ness growing up near Taupo - the steam pipes at Wairakei. After a few nostalgic moments and photo (of course) we moved on to see a moon-like scene before us...the Porcelain Basin. Very cool.

Wairakei, New Zealand

Porcelain Basin, Norris

After lunch we headed out to the West Yellowstone entrance for petrol and supplies. We have driven so much in this huge park (it's like 2 million acres or something!) that we emptied one tank of fuel and all our food supplies were running low now that our fridge is behaving...not that we'd have starved since you can by a hot dog, hamburger or donut almost anywhere!

Back in the park we made a beeline for Old Faithful.  But first a short stop at Midway Geyser Basin in search of the Grand Prismatic Spring. We got to see it of course but missed the opportunity to climb a hill and look back down on the fantastic spring resplendent in many bright hues thanks to the different types of heat-tolerant microorganisms that live in the water at high temperatures.

Spot the Coyote or is it a Wolf?

Grand Prismatic Spring, Midway Geyser Basin

Yellowstone Tour Bus, parked next to Shirley

On, on, we made it to Old Faithful at 6pm...our finale event for Nadia's birthday; geyser display (hopefully) and a nice dinner. Both went off without a hitch. Old Faithful kept her end of the bargain by unleashing several gushes of steam and water over a 1-2 minute period. Much to everyone's delight, this was pure magic. THIS was VERY cool.

We then went on to dinner at the Obsidian Room in the Snow Lodge. After a yummy dinner (and no cooking by yours truly), we capped off our night with a chocolate fudge bundt cake for little Miss. She was very pleased to choose her candles and as we got singing a few tables around us joined in before Nadia got to blow them out. What fun!!

A nice way to celebrate our baby girl's BIG day!! Thanks all for the birthday wishes by text, email etc.

Day 20: More Yellowstone National Park, WY

Up early to secure a walk-in campsite. Kids were deposited into their carseats in recline position so that they could continue to sleep while Marco untethered us from the campsite. We were underway by 7.15am and made good progress to one of our two target campsites; Tower Falls near Tower - Roosevelt Junction.

We got to experience the Park waking up; fog lifting from the valley fields and rivers and steam (and smells) from several fumaroles at Mud Volcano. Not to mention bison - lots of them - again grazing and not fazed  by us humans.

What luck! Secured a campsite at Tower Falls so after breakfast we headed to Lamar Valley, in the north eastern part of the Park. Seeking Elk, Moose and wolves...and what did we see? Yep, more bison!

Private escort for a Bison!

Fields in bloom

Yellowstone...the name taken from the canyon walls

Bison skull...Yellowstone National Institute, Lamar Valley

After a picnic lunch at Soda Butte Creek, we headed to Mammoth Hot Springs. The buildings and set up at Mammoth is quite picturesque, akin to the Presidio in San Francisco. It is also the location of the original Fort Yellowstone when the Park was administered by the US Army and currently the Park Headquarters. We went seeking Elk, the famed upper and lower terraces and wi-fi. As to the Elk - they roam the area freely eating clover and quite domesticated as they don't seem to mind humans and everything we bring. The terraces which Ness really wanted to see to compare to NZ's own pink and white terraces of long ago (Mount Tarawera eruption, c. 1886) we put off to the following day as we made a short trip out of the Park to the North East entrance and township of Gardiner in Montana for wi-fi. Yep - sad but so true - we're addicted to staying connected!!

Entering Big Sky country

In Gardiner, after attending to our wi-fi fix and urgent matters, we had a real treat with ice cream all around...Pokeno (NZ) eat your heart out!

Real Ice Cream - "Ruch and thuck and creamy"

Coming back into the Park we passed through the Yellowstone Arch. It commemorates this being the first National Park in the US and also the world? And we just had to get Shirley in the photo!!

Yellowstone Arch North Entrance from Montana into Wyoming

After more Elk watching at Mammoth we headed back to our camp at Tower Falls.

Nadia obeying the sign

Elk at Mammoth Hot Springs, Yellowstone

Day 19: Yellowstone National Park, WY

Yay! A much needed sleep in to greet the day in this majestic Park. IT IS HUGE!

Over a leisurely breakfast in Shirley (we are in bear country so no tables or fire rings to be had), we started to plan our next few days here. To our delight, we discovered we had planned 13-18 July in Yellowstone so will be able to use one of the days to head south and check out the Grand Tetons after all.

Side note: we also started to draft our marketing of Shirley to potential buyers, SO if anyone reading is interested, she will be ready for new owners on August 23, 2011. If the latest round of repair tweaks hold true, she'll be a real steal:-)

Order of the day was to collect the Junior Ranger booklet, maps and glean some local knowledge to add on to our must see or do list. Watching bison, sighting wolves and bears, encounters with beavers were up there with the geothermal activity of Old Faithful, Grand  Prismatic Hot Springs, Mud volcanoes and the super volcano history that makes up the Yellowstone caldera and Yellowstone's own 'Grand Canyon'. Just where to start???

Lake Yellowstone at Fishing Bridge

Matteo in remnants of 12 foot winter snow pack at Fishing Bridge

Afternoon animal seeking adventure began with a few thunder claps and hail storm. Excellent omen.

From Fishing Bridge, we headed north to Hayden Valley and within a few minutes of driving were treated the beginning of our evening spectacle - bison (buffalo) feeding roadside oblivious to the traffic and two legged variety taking happy snaps. In the space of say 15 miles we saw many bison and their calves, Canadian Geese, Pelicans and countless other birds - Osprey plus plus. We also encountered those tourist types who would make Darwin Award nominations look super easy...despite the warnings; some who needed to get extra close for a perfect shot, others who stopped their cars next to bison crossing the road preventing these beasts from getting to the other side...luckily the animals were more interested in grazing than goring!

Bison grazing with Yellowstone River

Bison

During another storm that passed through the valley we pulled Shirley into a turnout and got busy cooking dinner and watching the animals ~100 meters away. While it was lightening and thunder outside we got to watch in our relative comfort...definitely getting used to this!

More Bison feeding along Yellowstone River

End of the day alongside flooded Yellowstone River

We headed back to camp to call it a night. After our 4am arrival, it was what the Dr. ordered.

Day 18: Arches National Park, UT to Yellowstone National Park, WY

Yet another leaving day...what was different about this one is that apart from having farewelled our friends and the adventure mecca of Moab we embarked on our first mammoth road trip, +600 miles.

But first, we called into the visitor center for Matteo to collect another Junior Ranger badge...now his third. Wohoo!!

Matteo making his Arches Junior Ranger Pledge

Yellowstone Park in Wyoming/Montana/Idaho, here we come ... via Price, Salt Lake City (for yet more Shirley repairs...same old issues of refrigerator and toilet - but major show stoppers nonetheless).

Tie Fork, UT home to one fancy rest area

Complete with own train

After Salt Lake City, we headed north into the States of Idaho and Montana.

Hills - somewhere north of Salt Lake City

Plains - also somewhere north of Salt Lake City

 

Bye, bye Utah...Hello Idaho!

 We forewent the sleeping giants of the Grand Tetons in Wyoming since wouldn't see anything at night.Instead we headed through Pocatello and Idaho Falls before heading northwest to Yellowstone National Park sticking to the major highways before crossing into Wyoming proper.

Can I just say that it HAS been one helluva long day. Despite leaving Arches just after 9am, we didn't arrive at Fishing Bridge located on the shores of Yellowstone Lake and  in the eastern part of the Park until 4am. Certainly time lost for little and big things alike didn't help and nor did over shooting our turn off in the wee hours of the morning adding an extra 50miles.

New milestones: 2226 miles covered and almost one-third of the way and 3-days before a certain little girl turns 3-years old.

See map of our continued travels below....


View US Road Trip West in a larger map

Day 17: Loving it in Arches National Park, UT

Woke up in the only campground in Arches National Park, sunrise was calling to Marco so he went off to shoot pics and Ness got to brew a pot of coffee and sit outside in the early sunlight watching the day begin and attend to some catch-up blogging.

Best camping location yet!

Matteo ready for hiking

Mid-morning the gang arrived and we set off for our biggest hike to date; a 3-mile round trip to see the iconic Delicate Arch which also doubles as the State of Utah number plate graphic. Along the way we passed the Wolfe Ranch and some petroglyphs before embarking on a long, long incline of slick rock. With little shade the kids held their own relatively well; we had plenty of water stops and snacks to keep the motors running. After a solid hour hiking uphill we came to a crest to find an 'oasis' in the desert; trees and brush growing in their own little world.

Onwards and Upwards: Matteo, Nadia & Marco

Near the top: Tanner & Robin

Living life on the edge: Tanner, Lindsay, Cooper, Nadia, Robin & Matteo

A short while later we came cross a small arch before the real one emerged a few corners later...and there she was in all her glory...simply majestic! And of course the slew of obligatory pics followed...before we too lined up for our two minutes of fame underneath this beauty. Grandma Vicky and Poppa Gary also hiked to the top! Amazing effort...Marco got the proof (photo). We were all seriously impressed!!

Arches attracts 1 million visitors per year and it was only this hike that we really encountered a good number of tourists of all shapes and sizes and speaking many languages...the most by far being German-speaking.

Made it! Nadia & Matteo in their Moab Dirt(y) shirts...almost in camouflage!!

At Delicate Arch: Nadia, Matteo & Tanner

The majestic Delicate Arch

Nadia and Ness

More snacks and water was the order of the day before we commenced our descent. While it seemed like a long climb to get up to the arch, before we knew it was all over and time to eat...not before the kids encountered a lady documenting dragonflies in the swamp and then went on to discover some frogs and do what little boys do best...terrorize them and forget their Junior Ranger pledges. Oops.

Downhill section: Marco, Nadia & Robin

Downward View: Our Pathfinder Matteo is in lower left

Father & Son: Lindsay & Cooper

Our picnic lunch setting was back at our campsite and we had a great feast...of course the hike helped bring on good appetites all around.

Lunch at Devil's Campground in Arches

After lunch we decided to go all out and headed to Landscape Arch nestled in the Devil's Garden a short drive from camp. This turned out to a be a stretch for some of our little people...but we got there nonetheless.

Boys in fine form: Tanner & Matteo

Call it as you see it: Boys named this "Butt Crack Rock"

First glimpses of Landscape Arch

Group Photo

Ness at Landscape Arch

One Hike Too Many: Ness & Nadia

Then it was time to say goodbye to our friends...we stayed in Arches again and the they headed back to Canyonlands Campground - we could have all done with the swim though and another meal together!

AWESOME TIME WITH AWESOME PEOPLE!! THANKS FOR COMING AND SHARING THIS AMAZING ADVENTURE!!